Portrait of Lady Impey by Thomas Gainsborough, 1786

Home > Research by Subject > Textiles > Textiles by Country/Region

Textiles by Country/Region
I. China
II. Japan
III. Peru
IV. Turkey
V. United States of America

I. China
  • Coat
    Object ID: 03.02.059
    Date: 2006
    Origin: China
    Description: Manchurian "dragon" coat; full length coat with full length sleeves and a curved overlapping right front; side slits; three circles on each the front and the back and one circle on each shoulder portray dragons with five claws in clouds above waves surrounding a mountain; the bottom border has multi-colored diagonal stripes moving up and in toward a mountain in the middle of the bottom half of the coat; waves separate the bottom border from the rest of the coat; dragons and clouds along the collar and ends of sleeves; gray background; yellow lining

  • Ensemble
    Object ID: 03.02.056
    Date:
    Origin: China
    Description: Cream silk Chinese wrap dress embroidered with butterflies and flowers; periwinkle silk lining; black silk jacket with three knot-loop fasteners; periwinkle silk lining (lining has faded to purple in some areas; possibly meant for a baby, but more likely meant for a doll or just for decoration

  • Shirt
    Object ID: 03.02.003
    Date: 1970
    Origin: China
    Description: Two Chinese shirt pieces (front and back) with embroidered floral designs; tan background, black border, blue embroidery.

  • Shoe
    Object ID: 03.02.004
    Date: 2001
    Origin: China
    Description: Small orange colored Chinese shoe with cloth "ears" on the sides and eyes like a dog.

II. Japan
  • Kimono
    Object ID: 03.02.049
    Date: 1967
    Origin: Japan
    Description: Salmon and white colored kimono with navy, yellow, green, white, and salmon colored obi. Wrapped in mulberry paper the kimono package is 131/2" x 19", while the obi package is 13 x 17". Writing on the packages notes that the pieces are from the Matsuzakaya department store in Ginza, Tokyo. The date shows the items to have been purchased March 9, 1967. Other markings are unknown. A 11 x 12" handkerchief (pink with yellow flowers) is included in the kimono package.

III. Peru
  • Belt
    Object ID: 03.02.006
    Date: 1470-1532
    Origin: Peru
    Description: Incan girth made of vegetable fiber weft and camelid fiber warp. This piece has a heavy weft that appears to be a non-cotton vegetable fiber similar to that used by the pre-Columbian Peruvians to form the soles of sandals. The weft is completely covered by the heavy 8-ply yarns of the warp. Wooden bars reinforce the warp ends. The colors red and black are found often in Inca textiles. The design pattern is a perfect illustration of the pan-Peruvian stepped triangle-and-swirl motif. This piece may have been the girth strap for a llame pack-load, although it appears a bit short for that purpose.

  • Cloth Fragment
    Object ID: 10.01.010
    Date:
    Origin: Peru
    Description: This cotton weave square with supplementary wefts of red camelid fiber at the corners is probably from coastal Peru. It is made of a cotton plain weave with vertical stripes created by using alternating blue and white warp yarns. More decoration has been added at each corner by weaving in a supplementary weft yarn of red camelid fiber. The design created by the red yarn forms a lozenge or diamond shape in blue and white at each corner. There are dozens of extremely minute feathers adhering to and embedded in the cloth. The feathers are of different colors (yellow, orange, gray, white, iridescent blue). They are visible to the eye alone, but can only be identified as feathers through a powerful magnifying glass. From coastal Peru. A possible explanation of their presence is that during the construction of a mummy bundle, this cloth was placed in the wrappings close to, or touching, another object made of feathers, thus causing some of the feather particles to adhere to the cloth. The feathers of tropical birds were used to decorate many objects, such as fans, ear ornaments, crowns, and clothing. Their colors remain as brilliant today as they were when the bird was alive. Two other textiles in this collection were found to have feathers on them; the coca bag with shoulder strap and tassels and a small brown and white plain weave square with ties. Chances are excellent that all three of these items came from the same mummy bundle, a fact that is difficult to prove with objects having no known archaeological provenance.

  • Cloth Fragment
    Object ID: 10.01.008
    Date:
    Origin: Peru
    Description: This plain weave textile fragment has supplementary warp and weft of all camelid fiber. It probably served as a border panel that was joined to a larger garment. Along both selvages can be seen the original overcast stitches, of brown camelid fiber yarn, used to attach the panel to a larger piece of cloth. The dark blue basic plain weave cloth has been decorated with supplementary warp and weft yarns in bright red, incorporated into the fabric during the course of the weaving. They are not necessary for the structure of the fabric, and are free to appear and reappear on the face of the cloth according to the needs of the design. The design motif forms a series of squares in interlocking diagonal rows. From Peru.

  • Lace Fragment
    Object ID: 10.01.016
    Date: 1100-1400
    Origin: Peru
    Description: Lace remnant According to the appraisal by Tara Ana Finley, this small Chancay gauze textile fragment, circa 1100-1400 AD, contains a large section of openwork design interspersed with small flowerettes. This particular appraisal was made from a photograph as the piece was missing before Finley appraised the collection.

  • Loincloth
    Object ID: 10.01.021
    Date: 1200-1400
    Origin: Peru
    Description: Partial panel from a Chancay loincloth that has a tapestry weave with cotton warps and camelid fiber wefts. In this type of weave, the warp or vertical threads are so far outnumbered by the weft or horizontal threads that the warps are completely hidden. In this piece the weft threads cross the warp as many as 132 times in the space of an inch. Also there are several yarns of different colors, each of them crossing only a limited number of warp yarns before turning back upon itself. The color areas are like small distinct sections of weaving, yet are all done on the same warp. This piece is also characterized by a technique called slit tapestry, which is when small openings are left between the color areas. The warp yards are cotton and the weft yarns are camelid fiber. The camelid fiber fringe is woven separately and sewn on with overcast stitching. The design on this piece consists of a central field of light gold surrounded by a series of red and gold stripes, a band of birds, and another series of red and gold stripes. The birds are shown in profile, with beak, head, eye, tail, and one leg, but no wing. The sequence of colors used in the body of the bird is consistently white, red, gold, red. All red birds have a white beak and white eye with a black pupil. All white birds have a red beak and red eye with a black pupil. All gold birds have a red beak and black eye with white pupil except one gold bird at the center of the left edge of the textile, which has a red pupil. From Peru. This piece was probably the front panel of a loincloth that had been cut by grave looters who were hunting for and selling fragments of Peru's archaeological treasures

IV. Turkey
  • Rug
    Object ID: 02.02.022
    Date: c. 1920s
    Origin: Turkey
    Description: Hand-knotted Turkish rug, in Ushak pattern. Red background with dark greens, blues, yellows. Rug is reportedly similar to the Dining Room rug that was in Cherrydale while James C. Furman lived in the home.

V. United States of America
  • Belt
    Object ID: 03.02.016
    Date:
    Origin: United States of America
    Description: Brown leather belt with FURMAN UNIVERSITY written on buckle.

  • Cap
    Object ID: 03.02.023
    Date:
    Origin: United States of America
    Description: Purple and white felt F.U. freshman rat cap.

  • Cap
    Object ID: 03.02.014
    Date:
    Origin: United States of America
    Description: Purple and white felt Furman rat cap. Parts of the white F have faded to brown.

  • Cap
    Object ID: 03.02.057
    Date: 2006
    Origin: United States of America
    Description: Puple rat cap with dirty capital letter "F." White nob on top of cap. Brown leather interior band. Has small bill on front.

  • Cap
    Object ID: 03.02.062
    Date: 1954
    Origin: United States of America
    Description: Freshman rat cap from the fall of 1954 Dark purple cloth cap with small curved bill; white cloth covered button at top; white cloth "F" in front; brown leather strip around base of interior.

  • Cap
    Object ID: 03.02.063
    Date:
    Origin: United States of America
    Description: Furman rat cap Dark purple felt hat with small purple felt loop tassle at top; white felt "U" on front of hat, "F" is missing; red stitching along interior bottom of cap

  • Flag
    Object ID: 08.03.017
    Date: 1860
    Origin: United States of America
    Description: University Riflemen's flag.

  • Flag
    Object ID: 08.03.077
    Date:
    Origin: United States of America
    Description: US flag given by Annie Long to a squad of FU soldiers (Possibly WWI).

  • Hat
    Object ID: 03.02.019
    Date: 1929
    Origin: United States of America
    Description: Faded white felt hat with "Furman 29" written in purple felt.

  • T-shirt
    Object ID: 03.02.018
    Date: 1980
    Origin: United States of America
    Description: Purple and white football jersey-style T-Shirt. "Furman Paladins" and picture of a paladin on the front. "80 champs" on the back.

  • Uniform
    Object ID: 03.02.050
    Date:
    Origin: United States of America
    Description: A jacket, a pair of pants and a cap from Alester G. Furman's WWI uniform. Jacket has gold buttons with eagle insignia. Same insignia is on the Army Officer's service cap. All in dark mossy green color.

  • Uniform
    Object ID: 03.02.051
    Date:
    Origin: United States of America
    Description: Green canvas army jacket missing all buttons and insignia. Has bottom two snaps. Writen in black felt tip marker on inside of jacket back "Tom Long" followed by the number 3 and something that is unidentifiable but might be 4. Jacket is most likely a WWI uniform.

Last updated: March 1, 2013